Water Heater Repair in McKinney, TX

First, what kind of water heater do you have?

Knowing this makes every other step easier. Look at the unit and its label:

• Gas tank heater: has a metal flue pipe coming out of the top and a gas line with a shutoff valve running to a control box near the bottom.
• Electric tank heater: has no flue, an electrical cable into the top, and usually two small removable panels on the side covering the heating elements.
• Tankless (on-demand) heater: a compact box mounted on a wall with no storage tank.

The label also shows the model, capacity and usually the manufacture date, which is often coded into the serial number. Write these down before you contact a plumber.

Common problems and what usually causes them

No hot water at all

• Gas: the pilot light is out, the thermocouple or flame sensor has failed, the gas supply is off, or the gas control valve has failed. On newer heaters with electronic ignition, a fault code may flash on the control.
• Electric: a tripped breaker, a tripped high-limit reset button (usually behind the upper panel), or a failed upper element or thermostat.

Not enough hot water, or it runs out quickly

• A failed lower element on an electric heater (you get a little hot water, then it goes lukewarm)
• A broken dip tube, which lets incoming cold water mix at the top of the tank
• Heavy sediment in the bottom of the tank taking up space and insulating the water from the burner
• A heater that is simply too small for the household

See water heater not heating for a step-by-step troubleshooting guide.

Popping, rumbling or crackling noises

This is almost always sediment. Minerals from the water settle on the bottom of the tank, and water trapped underneath boils and pops when the burner or element heats it. It is not dangerous by itself, but it reduces efficiency and stresses the tank.

Leaking

Where the water is coming from matters a lot:

• From a pipe fitting on top: often a loose connection, repairable.
• From the temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve or its discharge pipe: the valve may be faulty, or the tank may be overheating or over-pressurised. This needs checking, not plugging.
• From the drain valve at the bottom: often a worn or partly open valve, repairable.
• From the tank body or the bottom seam: the tank has corroded through. This cannot be repaired.

Our guide to a water heater leaking from the bottom goes into detail.

Rusty or smelly hot water

Rust-colored hot water can mean the tank is corroding inside, especially if the cold water is clear. A rotten egg smell in the hot water only is often caused by a reaction between bacteria and the tank's anode rod, and a plumber may suggest replacing the rod with a different type.

What you can safely check yourself

1. Check the breaker for an electric heater, or check that the gas valve to a gas heater is on (the handle runs parallel to the pipe).
2. Look at the pilot through the viewing window on an older gas heater. If it is out, the relighting instructions are on the label. Follow them exactly, and only if you do not smell gas.
3. Check the thermostat setting. Around 120°F is a common setting that balances comfort, efficiency and scald risk.
4. Look for water on the floor or in the drain pan, and note where it seems to come from.
5. Listen for rumbling, which points to sediment.

Repair or replace?

Repair usually makes sense when:

• The heater is well within its expected life
• The fault is a single replaceable part (element, thermostat, thermocouple, igniter, drain valve, anode rod)
• The tank itself is sound, with no leaks or significant internal rust

Replacement is usually the better choice when:

• The tank is leaking from the body or seams
• The heater is past about 10 years old and needs an expensive part such as a gas control valve
• It has needed several repairs in a short time
• It no longer keeps up with the household

If replacement is on the table, see water heater replacement. In McKinney a replacement needs a city permit; a like-for-like part swap generally does not.

What to ask a plumber

• Is the tank itself sound? Can you show me where it is leaking?
• How old is this unit, based on the serial number?
• Is the part you are replacing covered by the manufacturer's warranty?
• What would you charge to repair it, and roughly what would replacement cost, so I can compare?
• Does the heater have a working drain pan and a correctly piped T&P discharge?

To confirm the plumber is licensed in Texas, use the TSBPE license lookup.

Keeping a water heater healthy

• Flush the tank periodically to remove sediment. A plumber can show you how, or do it during a service visit.
• Have the anode rod checked every few years. It is the part that corrodes so the tank does not.
• Test the T&P valve occasionally by lifting its lever briefly, with a bucket under the discharge pipe. If it will not reseal, have it replaced.
• Keep the area around a gas heater clear of stored items, paint and chemicals.