Toilet Repair in McKinney, TX

How a toilet works, briefly

When you press the handle, a chain lifts the flapper at the bottom of the tank, and the tank's water rushes into the bowl. As the tank empties, the flapper drops and seals. The fill valve on the left side then refills the tank until a float tells it to stop, while a small tube tops up the bowl. Any excess water goes down the overflow tube in the middle. Under the toilet, a wax ring or foam seal joins the toilet to the drain flange in the floor.

Knowing these parts makes the problems below much easier to diagnose.

A toilet that keeps running

This is the most common toilet complaint and wastes a lot of water.

• Worn or warped flapper: water slowly leaks into the bowl, so the tank refills every so often (a "phantom flush"). Test it with a few drops of food coloring in the tank; if color appears in the bowl within 15 minutes without flushing, replace the flapper.
• Water level too high: water spills into the overflow tube. Adjust the float so the water sits about an inch below the top of the overflow tube.
• Chain too short or tangled, holding the flapper slightly open.
• Worn fill valve that won't shut off fully, often hissing.

See leaking toilet for a step-by-step guide.

Water on the floor

Where the water comes from tells you what's wrong:

• Around the base after flushing: usually the wax ring seal has failed, often because the toilet has been rocking. The toilet needs to be lifted, a new seal fitted and the toilet reset. Don't just caulk around it; that hides the leak and lets it damage the subfloor.
• From the supply line or shutoff valve on the wall: tighten the connection gently or replace the supply line. Braided lines are inexpensive and worth replacing if they are old.
• From the tank bolts or between the tank and bowl: the rubber gaskets need replacing.
• Condensation on the outside of the tank in humid weather: droplets form and drip. This is not a leak, although it can still damage flooring.
• A crack in the tank or bowl: replace the toilet.

A weak or incomplete flush

• The water level in the tank is set too low
• The flapper closes too early (some flappers are adjustable)
• The rim holes and siphon jet under the rim are blocked with mineral scale
• A partial clog in the toilet trap or drain line
• A blocked roof vent, often with gurgling

A clogged toilet

1. Stop flushing if the water is high.
2. Use a flange plunger (the kind with an extra rubber sleeve) and make a good seal. Push gently at first, then plunge firmly several times.
3. If that fails, a toilet auger reaches into the trap without scratching the porcelain.

If the toilet clogs again and again, or other drains gurgle or back up when you flush, the problem is further down the line. See drain backing up.

A toilet that rocks

A toilet that moves when you sit on it will eventually break the wax seal and start leaking. Check whether the floor bolts at the base are loose and tighten them slightly and evenly (overtightening can crack the porcelain). If it still rocks, the floor may be uneven or the flange damaged, and it needs resetting with shims.

Repair or replace?

Repair makes sense for flappers, fill valves, handles, seals and supply lines. These are inexpensive and many homeowners handle them. Consider replacing the toilet when:

• The tank or bowl is cracked
• It clogs frequently despite a clear drain line (common with some older low-flow designs)
• Parts for an older or unusual model are hard to find
• You want to reduce water use: current toilets use much less water per flush than many older models

Replacing a toilet in the same location without altering the pipes doesn't require a permit in McKinney, according to the city's home repairs permit page.

When to call a plumber

• Water leaking at the base (needs the toilet removed and reset)
• A damaged flange or soft, spongy floor around the toilet
• Repeated clogs, or clogs affecting other drains
• The shutoff valve won't close or is leaking
• You'd rather not do it yourself

Ask whether the plumber will check the flange and the subfloor when the toilet is lifted, and whether a supply line and shutoff valve replacement is included. You can check a plumber's license with the TSBPE lookup.